In the fall of 2001 I was fortunate enough to be able to study abroad in Prague, yes I was there for 9/11 but that’s another story for another time and decidedly less humorous. I chose that place primarily because it was the only English-speaking program Pomona offered that I had the grades for outside of Australia, which just seemed to be California’s nephew with accents. It is to be noted that Prague was the only major European city that wasn’t bombed during the war and so all the amazing buildings had their original architecture in tact (one of the few tidbits I remember from my studies there, which I may have actually learned prior to leaving for Prague). In any event Prague was amazing, it was cheap, had some of the best beer in the world, home to some of the hottest women on the planet outside of Brazil and it was central to all of Europe, so it served as a great travel launch point.
The program I was in organized several trips to surrounding countries like Slovakia, Poland and Hungary, which were all amazing, and above all else the people in charge were organized and knew what they were doing so it made for a smooth trip every time. I would find out later, much to my chagrin, that my trip planning style was very….not that. When fall break rolled around, my friend Eric and I decided to plan our own trip and chose Greece as the destination. Paris and Madrid were too trendy and expensive and we weren’t too crazy about the idea of venturing too far east as there’s a limited number of times you can convince some random person you are Canadian and that you’ve actually owned that flag on your backpack for more than a week. So Greece it was.
We planned initially on spending the first couple days in Athens and then heading out to some of the Greek Islands (Ios, Santarini, etc.) and so we booked our flight and reserved a room in a hostel in downtown Athens for the first two nights we were to be there. Somehow we managed to overlook three important things involving our first night in Athens.
- Our flight got in late as hell and we ended up not clearing customs until about 12:30-1:00 AM
- Athens’ airport is roughly 30 minutes outside of the city of Athens and with the buses running less frequently that late at night, we didn’t actually reach Athens until 1:30 or 2:00
- The buses that drop people off in downtown Athens from the airport don’t drop people off anywhere near the hostel we had made a reservation at (I know it’s a writing faux pas to end a sentence with a preposition…..so I added this parenthetical….take that, grammar).
All of this added up to Eric and I being on the complete opposite side of an enormous European city at 2 AM with no ability to speak the language or guess at what signs meant because it was, quite literally, all Greek to us (that is either going to be received as painfully unfunny, or just blatantly corny enough to be hilarious…I rolled the dice). We were tired as hell when we got off the bus, but after 45 minutes of wandering around looking for hostels with open rooms with no success I was ready to go sleep on the Parthenon. Eric was (I would say is, but he’s gotten better with time) one of the more cheap people I’ve ever met and was horrified by the thought of paying double what we would be paying at a hostel for a hotel room, but eventually exhaustion got the best of him and we agreed to stay at the next hotel we stumbled into. At around 2:30 or 3 AM Eric and I strolled into the lobby of what we thought was your average Greek hotel and walked up to the lady at the desk and asked for a room.
Eric: Hi there, we’re exhausted, just got in from Prague, how much is a room?
Lady: For the whole night?
*Eric looks at me, looks back at her*
Eric: Um, yeeees.
*she looks at Eric and then at me and gave both of us a knowing nod and an “oooooh I get it” look came over her face*
At this point I was walking around the lobby checking out the excessive use of neon and suede couches and wondering why Athens was stuck in the 70’s and Eric was too exhausted and concerned with the money we were about to spend to really process what she had just asked and told us at the same time about her establishment. So after she had showered us with moderately disturbing anecdotes about her “lover-man” from America, we grabbed our stuff and headed upstairs to our room, which was at the end of the hall. The room had more mirrors than I have moderately humorous analogous references in my stories (read: walls and walls of mirrors). I might have thought something of it if I wasn’t so tired and somehow my brain managed to rationalize that hey, birthplace of Adonis, beauty, vanity….A+B+C…..carry the 2 = mirrors. We also found ourselves sharing one queen sized bed and in order to fully amplify the awkwardness felt in the room we soon discovered that nearly 80% of the channels on the TV were porn. And this wasn’t the skinemax-soft-core-a-girl-is-solving-a-mystery-and-engages-in-an-act-that-we’re-made-to-believe-is-sex-but-looks-more-like-overly-passionate-naked-dry-humping-porn. This was we-don’t-need-a-damn-plot-dear-God-is-that-her-uterus-porn.
I passed out very soon thereafter and stayed asleep as we Russells take great pride in our napping/sleeping ability (my dad once napped during a timeout one of my high school basketball games, which was caught on our game film and my coach noticed and made the team watch several times) but apparently Eric was constantly awoken by the sound of doors opening and closing and people coming and going in the hallway. He relayed all this information to me and it was at this point that the gears started to turn and I allowed the possibility that this wasn’t just Greek culture to enter my head. I don’t think any guy who considers himself “able” when it comes to the females wants to admit to himself that he spent the night in a whorehouse, but especially not when you spent the night in a whorehouse sharing the bed with a frugal, male study abroad student. Thus, I decided to push such thoughts to the back of my mind for the moment. Then, we went downstairs. Lit with sunlight and looking at the lobby with well-rested eyes we realized that the signs were there all along. Copious amounts of neon, velvet and suede all served as the cake to the proverbial icing of a blow up doll in the corner that neither of us had noticed the night before. Austin Powers would have been truly jealous.
We spent a good portion of the day shaking our heads and laughing in between trips to the Parthenon (which was truly awesome) and other various bajillion year old landmarks. However we came to the conclusion very quickly that Athens was really, really dirty and we had already seen most of what we wanted there in one day so we looked into heading out to the islands. Not having a place to stay that night, nor one booked on Ios, our destination, we opted for the late night ferry that would drop us off in the morning and we could catch a nap on the way.
4 AM is technically the morning, but not entirely the time we anticipated arriving at Ios, especially given the layout of the island. The ferrys dropped passengers off at the dock on one side of the island and it was a 10-20 minute drive uphill to get to the main town and another 10-20 minutes downhill to the other side of the island where we had read there was a good place to stay. 4 AM means no tram or bus is running and so it appeared we were walking up to town. We finally made it up there a half hour or so later and the place seemed to be a complete ghost town. All but a few lights were out and a majority of the this part of the island seemed to be built like a labrynth of buildings all connected with narrow, tall passageways. As Eric and I were discussing what the hell we were gonna do now since we had no idea where the hostel was and no real way of finding out we heard some people speaking English………loudly…..and in a drunken manner.
Instantly we were on the hunt for these random loud drunken English speaking people as they were the key to a good night’s sleep……………or alcohol. It took us a good 15 minutes to figure out where the hell these people were and after being suprised by random animals in the pitch black labrynth and damn near sharting myself i was ready to talk to these people, whoever they were. So I made Eric knock on the door while I stood at the bottom of the steps. The door swung open to reveal a very tan, very intoxicated man in his late 20s clad in only his boxers and looking like he had just endured a Class 4 tornado.
Eric: Hey man, we just -
Drunken Greek: – You got the drugs?!
Eric:…..um…..no, we actually just landed down -
DG: where are the drugs man?….did you bring em?
Eric: no no, no drugs we’re just wondering if you can tell us how to find a place to stay, we heard the English and wandered over…
DG: why don’t you have the drugs?……….it’s ok, come in come in…you’ll have a drink
Eric, not the type of person to turn down any kind of free alcohol shrugged and looked at me and said “ok” and followed DG into the house, who, in the process of welcoming us revealed that at least a third of his ass was hanging out the back of his boxers….somewhat of a trap door that was unable to close. We followed DG through the apartment to the back patio where there were two guys and one girl, all apparently at the peak of an ecstasy high. We introduced ourself and sat down, stone faced with the exception of our eyes which seemed to dart around relentlessly and scream out “whatthefuckisgoingonhere?!” every 8 seconds or so. Two minutes later we were handed shots, and not ones to be rude, downed them. The people on the patio were actually quite nice and we spent the next half hour or so til the sun came up, chatting about random things and playing “never have i ever” which i was under the impression was just a moderately entertaining game that middle schoolers in Oregon played but which apparently has some real fans on Ios.
Eric and I shared a cot that night in the middle of the living room and the next morning DG and the others walked with us down to the beach on the other side of the island and got us set up in a hostel where we could stay for about $5 a day 50-60 feet away from the beach. DG also happened to be the bartender at the only bar still open on Ios, as peak tourist season had passed and most places packed up shop until the next spring. We had every intention of moving on to Santorini for a couple days but couldn’t pull ourselves away from Ios.
One of the days we were there, I had finished the book I was reading and was waiting for Eric to finish his so we could switch. Not one to just sit on the beach and tan (mostly because my skin won’t allow it) I decided to go explore the hills to the east of the beach. I was told I could see Santorini from there and felt like getting some exercise so i hiked on up. I found a great spot on top of a rock which overlooked most of Ios and also allowed me to see Santorini off in the distance. I sat there, peacefully thinking about life, existentialism and really hot women i’d like to be there with when i suddenly noticed some goats walking around below me. Somehow i had missed the fact that in order to reach the rock on which i was sitting, i had to cross a fairly distinct pathway, which apparently served as these goats’ main walkway to take their kids (yes, a baby goat is indeed a kid) out to a field to eat and said pathway was a good 15 feet below me. What started out as an “aw they’re kinda cute” admiration for these animals quickly turned into “um, i’m fairly uncomfortable now” once they took notice of and disdain for my presence.
The first mama goat crossed the path and got pretty much directly below me when she noticed me and froze. She took what seemed like one step every half hour before her kids got restless and started headbutting her in the udders. This situation repeated itself with every mother goat and her kids that passed in front of me as i got increasingly nervous and attempted to stay as still as possible. This, however, was not the worst of it. The mothers would certainly protect their kids but showed no intention of coming up the rocks to confront me, the male goats bringing up the rear of the herd were a different story.
Two males, one who looked to be the grandaddy of the herd, with horns that circled over 2-3 times and the other who seemed to be the up and coming young buck of the group took note of me and instead of pausing and continuing as the others had, they turned toward me and started pawing the ground. At this point my liver karate chopped my kidneys and my heart and my stomach switched places and quite a few thoughts ran through my head.
“holy shit don’t tell me they’re coming up here”
“i’m not moving i’m not moving i’m not moving i wish i looked like a rock so they would go away”
“what if they do come up here?”
“could i beat up a goat?”
“if i beat up one of them, will the rest of them come after me?”
“would i punch it or kick it or just try to wrestle with it?”
“what if i beat up one of them and get away without the herd attacking, these goats are owned by a farmer, will he shoot me?”
“i can’t explain myself, i don’t speak the language”
“shitshitshitshitshit they’re coming up here”
It seemed like at this point that God had gotten a good laugh out of the situation and finally said “haha, ok that’s enough i was just fuckin with you” since two of the kids got a running start and headbutted the two males in the balls, real real hard. This certainly drew their attention away from me and they ended up taking them over to the field to eat. As soon as they were 100 yards away or so i bolted off the rock and ran most of the way back to the beach and started drinking immediately. To this day I wonder what the hell i would have done had those goats decided to climb up that rock and defend their goatly honor.
We spent the next few days drinking (where i learned that red wine + coke = delicious), reading, relaxing, cliff diving, swimming and i actually spent enough time in the sun to move me out of the range of Powder-i’m-so-white-i’m-bending-spoons skin tone i had acquired the past few months in Prague before heading back to a few months of snow and cold in wonderful Eastern Europe. If you ever get a chance to check out the Greek Island you have to go, i just emplore you to plan a little better than I did and by all means, avoid the goats.